SSS Wiki - User contributions [en]

Radio and Light Signalling

2018-09-25T05:10:04Z

Alan Saunders: Added Yaesu airband radio model details

== Radio ==
Typically, the 'line-of-sight' distance between the launch-point and winch is ~1.2Km - low power radio should easily span this distance but close adjacency of the two antenna and an aluminium pole severely compromise the antennas and reduce the efficacy of any hand-held radio.

Previously, we used modified PYE (Taxi?) radios tuned to the 'BGA Common Airfield Frequency - 129.975MHz'. These were very complex to repair and there was some doubt that using this frequency for communication to the winch was appropriate.

Licence-free, hand-held PMR446 radios proved to have insufficient range to/from launch-point, caravan, retrieve vehicle and winch.

Around 2015, Business Radios and Licences were obtained. Fixed on Channel One (173.0625MHz) with no user (glider-pilot) ability to alter any parameters - even the power on/off button is disabled.

* 3x Hytera HYT TM-600 or TM-610 mobile radios:
# Mounted in the launch point caravan.
# On a slide mount for the winch (kept in parachute cupboard).
# Spare (kept in parachute cupboard).
* 1x ICOM F3002 hand portable with BC-193 charger mounted in the caravan.
* 1x 8.33KHz spacing Yaesu FTA-250L Ultra Compact Airband Transceiver tuned to old 129.975MHz (common field frequency).<br />New 8.33 channels for gliding are likely to be announced in late 2018.

=== Faults and Maintenance ===
2018: The winch radio was stuck on 'transmit'. No electronic fault found. The inadequate (1.6mm, 1/16") pivots were broken, probably due to operators pressing too hard on the lower end of the switch rather than 'thumbing' the upper end as intended. Pivot point replaced with a slug of 'hot glue' - working OK so far.

2018: During regular operation, the Winch Radio tripped the (10A?) CB. A reconditioned radio (with microphone) was purchased for ~£60. Geoff Grayer diagnosed and replaced the failed, reverse polarity protection diode.

2018: The Caravan radio microphone failed. One of the pivots was broken but it still does not transmit sound, only carrier. Diagnosis in hand as of 24Sep18 (Alan S).

September 2018: Transmitting on the ''Business Radio'' caused loud, annoying ''mush'' on the ''Airband Radio''. Increasing the separation of the antenna fixed this but the new LED lamps switching regulators are causing a similar problem. The antenna must be separated from each other and from the aluminium mast as far as is practical.

== Light Signalling ==
Despite previous problems, the last evolution of the 'Launch Point Caravan' achieved adequate light signalling from single 55W (35W?) 20° beam quartz halogen lamps with minimal effort to line-up the caravan with the winch. This was mostly due to adequate sizing of the cables and subsequent minimal voltage drop.

=== Faults and Maintenance ===
2017: The up-slack/all-out toggle switch tended to stick in the all-out state - maybe having exceeded its 10K operation lifetime?. Subsequent to replacement the automated panel would randomly switch to 'all-out' or 'stop' from 'up-slack' - I believe the switch may have been replaced yet again?

September:2018
I removed some 'extraneous equipment' and tested the unit in continuous 'up-slack' - after 30 minutes it went to a permanent 'all-out'! By disturbing the connecting wires on the board I was able to induce 'all-out', 'stop' and even inability to boot. The problems were in the negative (0V) circuit. Primarily, three wires into a single 'blue insulated' crimp were very poorly made and the 6.3mm terminal was '''very''' loose. I replaced this terminal with a stacked connector with two red crimps though this has strained the wire to the stop switch. Further testing revealed a fractured solder joint from the same switch which I re-soldered. After much disturbing of the board and wiring plus five hours of 'all-out' without a hiccup I believe this problem is resolved. Alan Saunders

2018 Launch-Point Caravan
The 2018 caravan design has little consideration to correct wiring size. The lamps were running at ~10V (~60% of rated light output) and one bulb now had brown deposits, typical of end-of-life bulbs, especially those run at less than their rated voltage.

The 55W quartz-halogen lamps have been replaced by 2x 36W 30° LED lamps switched via the MOSFET relay as designed by Alan Sparrow. At ~6A the wiring and multiple terminals still dropped ~1V but these LED lamps maintain constant output from 10V to 30V. Winch drivers have found visibility of theses lamps to be more than adequate.

Unfortunately, the switching regulators in these lamps cause loud, annoying 'mush' on the airband radio.

[[User:Alan Saunders|Alan Saunders]] 04:24, 25 September 2018 (UTC)

Radio and Light Signalling

2018-09-25T04:24:29Z

Alan Saunders: Created topic for radio & light signalling.

== Radio ==
Typically, the 'line-of-sight' distance between the launch-point and winch is ~1.2Km - low power radio should easily span this distance but close adjacency of the two antenna and an aluminium pole severely compromise the antennas and reduce the efficacy of any hand-held radio.

Previously, we used modified PYE (Taxi?) radios tuned to the 'BGA Common Airfield Frequency - 129.975MHz'. These were very complex to repair and there was some doubt that using this frequency for communication to the winch was appropriate.

Licence-free, hand-held PMR446 radios proved to have insufficient range to/from launch-point, caravan, retrieve vehicle and winch.

Around 2015, Business Radios and Licences were obtained. Fixed on Channel One (173.0625MHz) with no user (glider-pilot) ability to alter any parameters - even the power on/off button is disabled.

* 3x Hytera HYT TM-600 or TM-610 mobile radios:
# Mounted in the launch point caravan.
# On a slide mount for the winch (kept in parachute cupboard).
# Spare (kept in parachute cupboard).
* 1x ICOM F3002 hand portable with BC-193 charger mounted in the caravan.
* 1x 8.33KHz spacing airband radio tuned to 129.975MHz (common field frequency).<br />New 8.33 channels for gliding are likely to be announced in late 2018.

=== Faults and Maintenance ===
2018: The winch radio was stuck on 'transmit'. No electronic fault found. The inadequate (1.6mm, 1/16") pivots were broken, probably due to operators pressing too hard on the lower end of the switch rather than 'thumbing' the upper end as intended. Pivot point replaced with a slug of 'hot glue' - working OK so far.

2018: During regular operation, the Winch Radio tripped the (10A?) CB. A reconditioned radio (with microphone) was purchased for ~£60. Geoff Grayer diagnosed and replaced the failed, reverse polarity protection diode.

2018: The Caravan radio microphone failed. One of the pivots was broken but it still does not transmit sound, only carrier. Diagnosis in hand as of 24Sep18 (Alan S).

September 2018: Transmitting on the ''Business Radio'' caused loud, annoying ''mush'' on the ''Airband Radio''. Increasing the separation of the antenna fixed this but the new LED lamps switching regulators are causing a similar problem. The antenna must be separated from each other and from the aluminium mast as far as is practical.

== Light Signalling ==
Despite previous problems, the last evolution of the 'Launch Point Caravan' achieved adequate light signalling from single 55W (35W?) 20° beam quartz halogen lamps with minimal effort to line-up the caravan with the winch. This was mostly due to adequate sizing of the cables and subsequent minimal voltage drop.

=== Faults and Maintenance ===
2017: The up-slack/all-out toggle switch tended to stick in the all-out state - maybe having exceeded its 10K operation lifetime?. Subsequent to replacement the automated panel would randomly switch to 'all-out' or 'stop' from 'up-slack' - I believe the switch may have been replaced yet again?

September:2018
I removed some 'extraneous equipment' and tested the unit in continuous 'up-slack' - after 30 minutes it went to a permanent 'all-out'! By disturbing the connecting wires on the board I was able to induce 'all-out', 'stop' and even inability to boot. The problems were in the negative (0V) circuit. Primarily, three wires into a single 'blue insulated' crimp were very poorly made and the 6.3mm terminal was '''very''' loose. I replaced this terminal with a stacked connector with two red crimps though this has strained the wire to the stop switch. Further testing revealed a fractured solder joint from the same switch which I re-soldered. After much disturbing of the board and wiring plus five hours of 'all-out' without a hiccup I believe this problem is resolved. Alan Saunders

2018 Launch-Point Caravan
The 2018 caravan design has little consideration to correct wiring size. The lamps were running at ~10V (~60% of rated light output) and one bulb now had brown deposits, typical of end-of-life bulbs, especially those run at less than their rated voltage.

The 55W quartz-halogen lamps have been replaced by 2x 36W 30° LED lamps switched via the MOSFET relay as designed by Alan Sparrow. At ~6A the wiring and multiple terminals still dropped ~1V but these LED lamps maintain constant output from 10V to 30V. Winch drivers have found visibility of theses lamps to be more than adequate.

Unfortunately, the switching regulators in these lamps cause loud, annoying 'mush' on the airband radio.

[[User:Alan Saunders|Alan Saunders]] 04:24, 25 September 2018 (UTC)

Main Page

2018-09-24T18:26:44Z

Alan Saunders: Created topic for radio & light signalling.

'''Shalbourne Gliding Wiki'''

This library contains current and historical information about club activities, details and history of equipment and facilities maintenance and procedures. Enjoy!

'''* [[Club Rules]]'''

'''* [[Aircraft]]'''

'''* [[Radio and Light Signalling]]'''

'''* [[Safety]]'''

'''* [[Winch Driving]]'''

'''* [[BGA Laws and Rules]]'''

'''* [[Guide to Bronze Badge]]'''

'''* [[XC Flying]]'''

'''* [[Inter Club League]]'''

'''* [[Airfield]]'''

'''* [[Equipment]]'''

'''* [[FLARM]]'''

'''* [[Committee Meetings]]'''

'''* [[Information for New Members]]'''

'''* [[Application forms, logsheets, etc]]'''

'''* [[Configuration Data]]'''

Skybrid

2017-09-09T22:08:29Z

Alan Saunders: Adjust

A [http://www.tost-startwinden.de/ Tost] model ?? converted and delivered by [http://www.skylaunchuk.com/ Skylaunch] in March 2008. Cost of essential maintenance was similar to the cost of conversion: mounted on a twin-axle trailer with large, narrow drums, no paying on gear, new roller boxes and the Skylaunch panel.
The winch is powered by an Oldsmobile V8 455 cubic inch (7.5l) capacity engine fuelled with Propane gas. More details about the engine here:[[Oldsmobile 455 data]]. The power from the engine is transferred to the drive axle via a [[GM TH400 automatic transmission unit]].
==Work Required==

* Fit missing rear axle bolts
* Check tyre pressures / determine 'correct' tyre pressures. Weight distribution always makes one pair of tyres look flat.
* Replace or repair stop lights.
* Line cab with insulation/thin plywood.

NB: re torque half shaft nuts (300 lb/ft) every six months - remember to remove grub screws locking axle nuts before torquing. Failure to do this risks breaking half shafts.
*re torque exhaust manifold bolts as required (else gaskets blow)
*change auto trans oil every six months and filter every year - no auto trans failures have occurred since doing this.

==General Maintenance Notes==
'''Winch brake drum removal procedure'''

If necessary a cable drum can be removed without removing the cable, however, note that if this is done the guard rail on the Skybrid drum must be protected.
*Position the winch under the crane with the centreline of the axle under the gantry.
*If air tools are to be used position the gantry crane on level ground within 20 metres of the compressor.
*Loosen the drum retaining bolts, the axle nut and the half shaft end plate retaining nuts.
*Use a suitable rope sling to prepare to lift the drum, take care to avoid damaging guard rails.
*Take the strain and and remove the drum nuts
*Use a pair suitable 10mm bolts to jack off the drum.
*Lift off the drum and tie it to the gantry stanchion. Do not allow full weight of drum to rest on guard rails.
*Remove the half shaft nut
*Removed the half shaft flange retaining nuts.
*Place an oil tray under the flange to catch oil.
*Break the seal between the half shaft flange and the brake drum and slide it outwards.
*Mark the angular position of the flange relative to the half shaft
*Use a sledgehammer and protective aluminium plate to 'break' half shaft taper
*Use a large screwdriver to lift the flange on the bearing retainer, then using a suitable drift unscrew the locking ring
*Remove the bearing retaining ring and keeper plate
*Remove the brake drum
*Note that if the brake back plate is removed that the retaining bolts are drilled straight into an oil reservoir. Be prepared to catch any lost oil.

NB: The recommended oil level in the differential and dog clutch boxes comes half way up the half shaft tube and floods back into the axle bearings. Consequently the only things that prevents the axle oil from leaking out into the brake drums are the brake drum oil seals (type 125 95 13 TC from Simply Bearings). It is recommended these are replaced whenever a drum is removed. See notes in para below on finding/monitoring ideal oil level.

The differential oil must be replenished to the dip stick level with 80W/90 gear oil.

==Parts replaced / work done==
===9th Sept 2017===
Transmission was jumping to 'Drive' uncommanded due to engine vibration. Push rod shortened but requires further adjustment.
N.B. Ineffective transmission-end 'detent' requires freeing and adjustment. Alan S
===7th Sept 2017===

*Replaced blown exhaust manifold gasket (LHS) with white and metal lined gaskets plus small amount of gungum. Filled eroded parts on block and manifold with liquid steel.

===1st Sept 3017===
*Problem with replacement starter as below with solenoid jamming. Replaced by James H temporarily with starter from reserve winch.

===25th Aug 2017===
*Replaced faulty starter motor with recon motor supplied by James H. RP, KH & CB

===13th April 2017===
*Changed engine oil and filter
*Changed transmission oil only
*Replaced spark plugs
*Identified fairly severe air or exhaust leak from under small eroded blanking plate just to RHS of carburettor. Liberal amount of Gungum applied which has sealed it for the timebeing. Engine runs considerably quieter.
*Checked tightness of cable drum nuts - OK. CB & RP

===17th March 2017===
*Annual guillotine check - LHS failed initially but passed following second strip-down and reassembling. CB, PB, M SELBY, RP

===22 Feb 2017===
*Leaking radiator beyond Repair. Completely refurbished by Berkshire Radiators, 266 Gosbrook Road, Caversham, RG4 8EA 0118 947 3501, with 2 X larger core and 1 year guarantee. Fitted with new fan switch and leak tested by CB, KH, AS & DG.
*Intermittant starting problem solved by fitting additional engine earth connection.

===25 Jan2017===
*Further attempt to improve joint between RHS exhaust manifold and pipe by packing with piece of bean can and more gungum.

===11 Jan 2017===
* Replace RHS exhaust manifold. This did not seal fully against the head - rear port on head found to be corroded so GunGum used to seal as best as possible. Different connection to exhaust pipe. Liberal use of GunGum to facilitate a connection.

===4th Oct 2016===
*Remove RHS exhaust manifold. Surfaces found to be extensively pitted. Resorted to cleaning up as best as possible then applying exhaust cement and refitting with new gasket. RP

===30 Sept 2016===
*Transmission oil and filter changed. RP & M selby
===16 Sept 2016===
*Engine oil and filter changed. RP & M Selby

===5 Sept 2016===
* Tightened half shaft nuts - LHS little or no movement. RHS v slightly slack taking approx 1/8th of a turn. RP

===June 2016 - New Cables Fitted===
* 1200m each side plus extensions using existing (~100m) barely worn cable on LHS and approx 50m unused cable on RHS. RP & A Saunders

===2015? - Disk Brakes===
*Rod Harris converted both drums to disk brake operation, using parts from Hyundai Coupe BP51TMO

===August 2015===

*Changed engine oil and filter, changed transmission oil and filter, changed air filter, repaired exhaust leak from blanked off port, diff oil level OK, tightened half shaft nuts to spec.

===July 2015===

*Rear right hand vertical roller in right hand roller box cut half way through to retaining bolt during launch. Roller, compression tube, M12 bolt and bearings replaced. NB: roller was not seized, so no evident cause.

*New cables fitted.

*Leak from radiator filler re-soldered.

*Radiator fan switch inoperative and shorting to earth, replaced with thermistor bonded to header tank (80deg on 65 deg off +-5deg). Temporary manual switch fitted, 10A circuit breaker replaced, fan rewired.

*Plastic container fitted to catch overflow from selector boxes.

===Jan/Feb 2015===

*Following a catastrophic failure of the differential on the Reserve Winch it was found that the Skybrid winch differential had run dry and had sustained serious damage to the pinion teeth its bearing. A rebuilt differential was purchased from Skylaunch and all 'inaccessible' bearings replaced. New half shaft bearings and dog clutch cap screws were also fitted. New hub oil seals were fitted and the differential was refilled with EP80W/90 gear oil.
*NB: On fitting the new differential it was found that the half shaft splines of the damaged axle did not match those in the replacement differential. However, by good fortune the half shafts from the Reserve Winch were found to be the correct type, so these were cannibalised.

*On reassembly it was found that the left hand selector lever detent did not work, meaning that the dog clutch could accidentally become disengaged. This was fixed using a pair of adapted cap headed screws.

*Skylaunch advised that the hub bearings should be lubricated with axle oil at the same level as the differential. However, when new hub seals were fitted it could not be ascertained that they were making a very effective seal. Following a discussion with the Skylaunch engineer who rebuilt the differential it was agreed to set the oil level below the lip of the diff half shaft tunnel and top up the selector boxes to the level of the filler holes. Consequently a lower oil level marker was set on the dip stick.

*NB: as at 1/3/15 oil is still spilling into the selector boxes, so the oil level is indeterminate and we are using an adjustable dip stick. The plan is to keep draining oil from the selector box filler holes until the oil level stabilises (if it ever does). If it doesn't then we'll have to keep draining the selector boxes and topping up the diff.

* If all goes well it is recommended that the differential oil level be checked at the same time as monthly guillotine checks.
*Engine oil was changed, but not auto transmission oil and filter.

===December 2014===

*Replaced worn out right hand brake shoe and adjusted mechanism.

===November 2014===

*Replaced worn out left hand brake shoe and adjusted mechanism
*Re welded broken cable deflector
*Topped up dog clutch gearboxes and greased u/js

===October 2014===

* Changed oil and filter
* Changed transmission oil
* Torqued axle nuts
* Fitted new air filter

===March 2014===
*Flushed engine and changed oil and filter
*Changed auto trans oil and filter
*Torqued axle nuts

*Annual guillotine check found assister springs out of balance and causing blade to bind. Adjusted spring tensions to 'twang' equally. Guillotines stripped, cleaned and lubricated.

*Replaced exhaust blanking stub with fabricated part

*Fitted new floor to winch cab
*Fitted chains to release brake levers

===February 2014===
* Fixed exhaust leak from LH exhaust manifold. Casting eroded, so new gasket fitted with sealant. Also made temporary repair to leaking exhaust stub. Needs new part.

===January 2014===
* Fitted aluminium cable deflection plates over damaged cage under drums.
* Moved tow out brake tensioning mounting points, fitted new springs and rope ratchets.

===October 2013===
*Changed engine oil and filter
*Changed trans oil and filter
*Torqued axle nuts

===March 2013===
* Fitted cable buffers to protect paying-in gear

* Failed guillotine test

both mechanisms found to be clogged with debris:

Fitted assister springs and re-set guillotine blades on LH mechanism.

'''POSSIBILITY OF FAILURE DUE TO CONTAMINATION MANDATES FULL STRIP DOWN AT FUTURE ANNUAL GUILLOTINE CHECKS'''

===June 2013===

Changed engine oil and filter.
* Tightened exhaust manifolds.
* Changed transmission oil and filter.
* Torqued half shaft nuts.
* Changed air filter.
* Oil leak from base of dip stick tube contaminating starter motor. Resealed with RTV sealant.

===September 2012===
* Reconditioned starter motor. Contaminated with engine oil. Later found to be due to oil leaking from base of dipstick.

===August 2012===
* Replaced both exhaust manifold gaskets

===June 2012===
* Changed engine oil and filter
* Changed auto trans fluid and filter
* Half shaft nuts re torqued

===Feb 2012===

* Replaced sheared dog clutch cap head bolts (right hand drum)
one bolt missing as could not remove broken screw.
* Replaced right hand exhaust gasket
* Changed engine oil and filter
* Changed auto trans fluid
* Half shaft nuts torqued

===Summer 2011===

* Changed engine oil and filter
* Changed auto trans fluid
* Half shaft nuts torqued
* Compression checked

===Feb/Mar 2011:===
* Replaced exhaust manifolds gaskets (ones previously fitted eroded due erosion of manifold face – used cement when fitting)
* Removed broken exhaust manifold stud.
* Winch taken to Lee on Solent for catch rail repair.
* Repaired winch drivers chair.
* Right hand brake tension adjusted to balance pull out tension
* Electrics moved to main control panel and rev counter temporarily secured with cable tie.
* Exhaust manifold bolts re-torqued.
* Failed annual guillotine test. Removed both guillotine assemblies. Cleaned, lubricated and refitted. Both passed annual test.
* Sludge in oil. Checked breather - OK.

===Oct/Nov 2010:===
* Replacement (second hand) exhaust manifolds fitted.
* Engine oil and filter changed.
* Transmission oil and filter changed.
* Rocker cover gaskets changed.
* Leaking oil pressure switch replaced.
* Transmission cooler fan switch moved away from exhaust manifold.
* Compressions checked.
* Half shaft nuts re torqued.
* Exhaust system braced to prevent silencers swinging on manifolds.

FLARM

2017-04-18T02:22:58Z

Alan Saunders: Created new page to describe FLARM and the ground tracking station

All Shalbourne Gliding gliders are equipped with the FLARM system that can warn you of the proximity of other gliders and, sometimes, hang-gliders, para-gliders, and small, powered aircraft including helicopters. This does not absolve you from an excellent lookout; hopefully, you will spot the distant glider before Flarm warns you.

Main Page

2017-04-17T19:59:25Z

Alan Saunders: Add FLARM and OGN tracking to the Index

'''Shalbourne Gliding Wiki'''

This library contains current and historical information about club activities, details and history of equipment and facilities maintenance and procedures. Enjoy!

'''* [[Club Rules]]'''

'''* [[Aircraft]]'''

'''* [[Safety]]'''

'''* [[Winch Driving]]'''

'''* [[BGA Laws and Rules]]'''

'''* [[Guide to Bronze Badge]]'''

'''* [[XC Flying]]'''

'''* [[Inter Club League]]'''

'''* [[Airfield]]'''

'''* [[Equipment]]'''

'''* [[FLARM]]'''

'''* [[Duty Teams & Rota]]'''

'''* [[Committee Meetings]]'''

'''* [[Information for New Members]]'''

'''* [[Configuration Data]]'''

Skybrid

2016-06-26T01:40:08Z

Alan Saunders: /* Parts replaced / work done */

A [http://www.tost-startwinden.de/ Tost] model ?? converted and delivered by [http://www.skylaunchuk.com/ Skylaunch] in March 2008. Cost of essential maintenance was similar to the cost of conversion: mounted on a twin-axle trailer with large, narrow drums, no paying on gear, new roller boxes and the Skylaunch panel.
The winch is powered by an Oldsmobile V8 455 cubic inch (7.5l) capacity engine fuelled with Propane gas. More details about the engine here:[[Oldsmobile 455 data]]. The power from the engine is transferred to the drive axle via a [[GM TH400 automatic transmission unit]].
==Work Required==

* Fit missing rear axle bolts
* Check tyre pressures / determine 'correct' tyre pressures. Weight distribution always makes one pair of tyres look flat.
* Replace or repair stop lights.
* Line cab with insulation/thin plywood.

NB: re torque half shaft nuts (300 lb/ft) every six months - remember to remove grub screws locking axle nuts before torquing. Failure to do this risks breaking half shafts.
*re torque exhaust manifold bolts as required (else gaskets blow)
*change auto trans oil every six months and filter every year - no auto trans failures have occurred since doing this.

==General Maintenance Notes==
'''Winch brake drum removal procedure'''

If necessary a cable drum can be removed without removing the cable, however, note that if this is done the guard rail on the Skybrid drum must be protected.
*Position the winch under the crane with the centreline of the axle under the gantry.
*If air tools are to be used position the gantry crane on level ground within 20 metres of the compressor.
*Loosen the drum retaining bolts, the axle nut and the half shaft end plate retaining nuts.
*Use a suitable rope sling to prepare to lift the drum, take care to avoid damaging guard rails.
*Take the strain and and remove the drum nuts
*Use a pair suitable 10mm bolts to jack off the drum.
*Lift off the drum and tie it to the gantry stanchion. Do not allow full weight of drum to rest on guard rails.
*Remove the half shaft nut
*Removed the half shaft flange retaining nuts.
*Place an oil tray under the flange to catch oil.
*Break the seal between the half shaft flange and the brake drum and slide it outwards.
*Mark the angular position of the flange relative to the half shaft
*Use a sledgehammer and protective aluminium plate to 'break' half shaft taper
*Use a large screwdriver to lift the flange on the bearing retainer, then using a suitable drift unscrew the locking ring
*Remove the bearing retaining ring and keeper plate
*Remove the brake drum
*Note that if the brake back plate is removed that the retaining bolts are drilled straight into an oil reservoir. Be prepared to catch any lost oil.

NB: The recommended oil level in the differential and dog clutch boxes comes half way up the half shaft tube and floods back into the axle bearings. Consequently the only things that prevents the axle oil from leaking out into the brake drums are the brake drum oil seals (type 125 95 13 TC from Simply Bearings). It is recommended these are replaced whenever a drum is removed. See notes in para below on finding/monitoring ideal oil level.

The differential oil must be replenished to the dip stick level with 80W/90 gear oil.

==Parts replaced / work done==

===June 2016 - New Cables Fitted===
* 1200m each side plus extensions using existing (~100m) barely worn cable on LHS and approx 50m unused cable on RHS.

===2015? - Disk Brakes===
*Rod Harris converted both drums to disk brake operation, using parts from Hyundai Coupe BP51TMO

===August 2015===

*Changed engine oil and filter, changed transmission oil and filter, changed air filter, repaired exhaust leak from blanked off port, diff oil level OK, tightened half shaft nuts to spec.

===July 2015===

*Rear right hand vertical roller in right hand roller box cut half way through to retaining bolt during launch. Roller, compression tube, M12 bolt and bearings replaced. NB: roller was not seized, so no evident cause.

*New cables fitted.

*Leak from radiator filler re-soldered.

*Radiator fan switch inoperative and shorting to earth, replaced with thermistor bonded to header tank (80deg on 65 deg off +-5deg). Temporary manual switch fitted, 10A circuit breaker replaced, fan rewired.

*Plastic container fitted to catch overflow from selector boxes.

===Jan/Feb 2015===

*Following a catastrophic failure of the differential on the Reserve Winch it was found that the Skybrid winch differential had run dry and had sustained serious damage to the pinion teeth its bearing. A rebuilt differential was purchased from Skylaunch and all 'inaccessible' bearings replaced. New half shaft bearings and dog clutch cap screws were also fitted. New hub oil seals were fitted and the differential was refilled with EP80W/90 gear oil.
*NB: On fitting the new differential it was found that the half shaft splines of the damaged axle did not match those in the replacement differential. However, by good fortune the half shafts from the Reserve Winch were found to be the correct type, so these were cannibalised.

*On reassembly it was found that the left hand selector lever detent did not work, meaning that the dog clutch could accidentally become disengaged. This was fixed using a pair of adapted cap headed screws.

*Skylaunch advised that the hub bearings should be lubricated with axle oil at the same level as the differential. However, when new hub seals were fitted it could not be ascertained that they were making a very effective seal. Following a discussion with the Skylaunch engineer who rebuilt the differential it was agreed to set the oil level below the lip of the diff half shaft tunnel and top up the selector boxes to the level of the filler holes. Consequently a lower oil level marker was set on the dip stick.

*NB: as at 1/3/15 oil is still spilling into the selector boxes, so the oil level is indeterminate and we are using an adjustable dip stick. The plan is to keep draining oil from the selector box filler holes until the oil level stabilises (if it ever does). If it doesn't then we'll have to keep draining the selector boxes and topping up the diff.

* If all goes well it is recommended that the differential oil level be checked at the same time as monthly guillotine checks.
*Engine oil was changed, but not auto transmission oil and filter.

===December 2014===

*Replaced worn out right hand brake shoe and adjusted mechanism.

===November 2014===

*Replaced worn out left hand brake shoe and adjusted mechanism
*Re welded broken cable deflector
*Topped up dog clutch gearboxes and greased u/js

===October 2014===

* Changed oil and filter
* Changed transmission oil
* Torqued axle nuts
* Fitted new air filter

===March 2014===
*Flushed engine and changed oil and filter
*Changed auto trans oil and filter
*Torqued axle nuts

*Annual guillotine check found assister springs out of balance and causing blade to bind. Adjusted spring tensions to 'twang' equally. Guillotines stripped, cleaned and lubricated.

*Replaced exhaust blanking stub with fabricated part

*Fitted new floor to winch cab
*Fitted chains to release brake levers

===February 2014===
* Fixed exhaust leak from LH exhaust manifold. Casting eroded, so new gasket fitted with sealant. Also made temporary repair to leaking exhaust stub. Needs new part.

===January 2014===
* Fitted aluminium cable deflection plates over damaged cage under drums.
* Moved tow out brake tensioning mounting points, fitted new springs and rope ratchets.

===October 2013===
*Changed engine oil and filter
*Changed trans oil and filter
*Torqued axle nuts

===March 2013===
* Fitted cable buffers to protect paying-in gear

* Failed guillotine test

both mechanisms found to be clogged with debris:

Fitted assister springs and re-set guillotine blades on LH mechanism.

'''POSSIBILITY OF FAILURE DUE TO CONTAMINATION MANDATES FULL STRIP DOWN AT FUTURE ANNUAL GUILLOTINE CHECKS'''

===June 2013===

Changed engine oil and filter.
* Tightened exhaust manifolds.
* Changed transmission oil and filter.
* Torqued half shaft nuts.
* Changed air filter.
* Oil leak from base of dip stick tube contaminating starter motor. Resealed with RTV sealant.

===September 2012===
* Reconditioned starter motor. Contaminated with engine oil. Later found to be due to oil leaking from base of dipstick.

===August 2012===
* Replaced both exhaust manifold gaskets

===June 2012===
* Changed engine oil and filter
* Changed auto trans fluid and filter
* Half shaft nuts re torqued

===Feb 2012===

* Replaced sheared dog clutch cap head bolts (right hand drum)
one bolt missing as could not remove broken screw.
* Replaced right hand exhaust gasket
* Changed engine oil and filter
* Changed auto trans fluid
* Half shaft nuts torqued

===Summer 2011===

* Changed engine oil and filter
* Changed auto trans fluid
* Half shaft nuts torqued
* Compression checked

===Feb/Mar 2011:===
* Replaced exhaust manifolds gaskets (ones previously fitted eroded due erosion of manifold face – used cement when fitting)
* Removed broken exhaust manifold stud.
* Winch taken to Lee on Solent for catch rail repair.
* Repaired winch drivers chair.
* Right hand brake tension adjusted to balance pull out tension
* Electrics moved to main control panel and rev counter temporarily secured with cable tie.
* Exhaust manifold bolts re-torqued.
* Failed annual guillotine test. Removed both guillotine assemblies. Cleaned, lubricated and refitted. Both passed annual test.
* Sludge in oil. Checked breather - OK.

===Oct/Nov 2010:===
* Replacement (second hand) exhaust manifolds fitted.
* Engine oil and filter changed.
* Transmission oil and filter changed.
* Rocker cover gaskets changed.
* Leaking oil pressure switch replaced.
* Transmission cooler fan switch moved away from exhaust manifold.
* Compressions checked.
* Half shaft nuts re torqued.
* Exhaust system braced to prevent silencers swinging on manifolds.

NEW LaunchPoint Caravan

2016-06-06T11:32:30Z

Alan Saunders: /* Solar Charge Controller */ - layout

==Solar Charge Controller==
The solar (Photo Voltaic - PV) panel, connected directly to the battery, was found to be charging at >16V! This is not good for the battery, lamp and control circuits. A Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) charge controller [http://www.bimblesolar.com/offgrid/chargers/10apwm Type 10I, 10A, 12/24V] from [http://www.bimblesolar.com Bimble Solar] is installed. The controller is powered by the battery and ''may'' be damaged if the panel is connected with no power from the battery.

<center>'''N.B. Disconnect the PV panel (2nd CB from left) before disconnecting the battery terminals!'''.</center>

[[File:Isolate Solar Panel CB2.jpg | center]]

<blockquote>
[[File:Solar Controller 10iPWM.jpg]]

{|
|-
| '''Instruction Manual:''' [[Media:10i-ec Solar Controller Manual.pdf|Acrobat (PDF) (4.91MB)]] (Hardcopy in caravan filing drawer)
|-
|There are three LEDs:

* Solar Panel LED:
** Green on: solar panel is charging the battery.
** Green blink: over voltage

*Battery LED:
** Green on: good battery level
** Green slowly flashing: battery fully charged
** Yellow on: battery level low
** Red on: load fault (not currently in use).

* Load LED: Not currently in use.

| Specification:
* Equalisation voltage: 14.8V
* High voltage disconnect(HVD): 14.4V
* Float voltage: 13.6V
* Low voltage disconnect(LVD) 11.1V
* Low voltage reconnect(LVR): 12.6V
* Self-consumption: 6mA maximum
* Temperature compensation: -30mV/℃/12V
* Terminals: for wire sizes to 6mm2
* Temperature: -35℃ to +55℃
|}
</blockquote>

==Solar cells==

An additional solar cell was fitted to the roof in summer 2015

==Damage==

As may have been predicted heavy use of an already 'lifed out' caravan has started to cause the bodywork to come apart. Regular inspection and running repairs will be needed to keep ahead of this.

==Battery regime==

Having experienced less than expected service life from previous leisure batteries, it was decided in October 2015 to buy two leisure batteries and swap them over each month so that they could be alternately fully charged. It is believed that this will prolong the life of the batteries.

==New Caravan==
March(?) 2010: Chris Bessent arranged the purchase of a cheap caravan that can be turned into the new launch point caravan. Steve Barber and Alan Saunders and others have stripped the interior of all its furniture and fittings ready for the the re-fit.

== Update 09/01/11 ==

OK, so we didn't make the Oct 10 target. But there is progress, thanks to John Turk. Additional floor fitted, next step to attach wall to floor to strengthen whole thing, then move on to to interior furnishings.
SB 09/01/11

==Re-fit plan (Spring 2010)==
The aim is to get the caravan refitted during Summer 2010, ready for use in October 2010.
*Fit new floor to caravan: 3/4" plywood or OSB (Existing floor (chipboard?) is very spongy and won't last long)
*If necessary, cross-beams can be fitted below the floor. Either wooden or metal (welded to caravan's perimeter chassis)
*Corner legs to be checked and fixed / replaced if necessary.
*Check jockey wheel. Fix broken bracket.
(Done - rewelded by Peter Ellison in April. SB13/6)
*Reinforcing frame to be fitted around the doorway - wood or preferably steel. (people pull themselves up into the caravan by pulling heavily on the sides - leading to distrortion and cracks)
*Handles to be fitted to the outside for ease of moving the caravan. Strongly recommend fitting structural elements (preferably welded steel) to transfer forces to the chassis of the caravan, not just bolt them to the flimsy walls.
*Check: Is the caravan weather tight? If not, fix the leaking areas. (This caravan will probably be stored outside)
*: Need to replace window catch rubber toggles (flexi catches?) - available from caravan shops or Ebay.
*Fit lino / similarly hardwearing & waterproof covering to floor.
*DECISION: Which way round should the caravan be orientated in use? (Facing up the field / across the field?)
* Obtain and fit worktop, and legs. Include cut-out for the signal/timing box of electronics. Would be nice to have a removable perspex top - notices could be put underneath this.
I recommend flat-pack desk from Ikea or similar. Signal unit could be surface mounted. SB 13/6
*DECISION: Work out where the following items are to be located - bearing in mind ergonomics, and the centre of gravity of the finished/loaded caravan. Ideally the caravan will only have slight nose weight to allow for easy positioning.
*Obtain and build/install racking / shelving / cupboard for parachutes (probably best located over the axle for CofG reasons)
I recommend pine flat-pack self-assembly units obtainable from Ikea - easier than build from scratch SB 13/6
*Obtain and build/install shelving / cupboards for: forms, pens, paperwork, flight manuals, barograph, binoculars, cushions & packing, etc.
*Obtain or build a storage box for lead ballast weights. Again, probably best to be over the axle. Needs to be very strong and located above a main chassis rail.
*Obtain / build and fit seating.
*Fit notice boards to internal wall.
*Paint caravan exterior. Probably copy existing red and white check pattern for walls and matt black for the roof.
*: Black will produce a high heat gain but is possibly needed as a background to the signalling lamp. (AS 13/6)
*Choose position and copy existing mounting system to attach windsock and mast to the new caravan.
*DECIDE: What signal lights to use? How to mount them, considering: Ease of visibility for winch driver, ease of adjusting the positioning, etc. Make mounts and fit to the caravan.
*: Furneaux Riddall (Portsmouth) have an LED Work Light [http://www.furneauxriddall.com/shop/acatalog/LED_Work_Light.html#a7450 link] (ref:7450) £65 which may be good as a signalling light. At 15W it should be at least as bright as a 75W Halogen and at 1.29A voltage dop will not be a problem. Will also extend battery life. Beam angle may be too wide? (AS 13/6)
*Decide on position of blackboard on outside of caravan. (or upgrade to whiteboard?)
*Battery to be fitted to the existing battery box on the A-frame. Arrange battery clamp and new leads and THICK, good quality wiring.
*Choose best position for circuit breakers and battery condition gauge (use the items from the old caravan, just allow for their position, only move them when ready to use the new caravan)
*Install good wiring in the caravan for the signal lights, signal buzzer, signal box, etc.
*When the rest of the caravan is ready, transfer signal controller box, signal lights, battery gauge, circuit breaker, windsock mast, etc to the new caravan.
*Test that everything works as desired.
*Transfer all the paperwork, forms, manuals, etc into the new caravan.
*Use Caravan. (taking care not to destroy it...)

NEW LaunchPoint Caravan

2016-06-06T10:24:30Z

Alan Saunders: /* Solar Charge Controller */ - added images and link to instructions

==Solar Charge Controller==
The solar (Photo Voltaic - PV) panel, connected directly to the battery, was found to be charging at >16V! This is not good for the battery, lamp and control circuits. A Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) charge controller [http://www.bimblesolar.com/offgrid/chargers/10apwm Type 10I, 10A, 12/24V] from [http://www.bimblesolar.com Bimble Solar] is installed. The controller is powered by the battery and ''may'' be damaged if the panel is connected with no power from the battery.

<center>'''N.B. Disconnect the PV panel (2nd CB from left) before disconnecting the battery terminals!'''.</center>

[[File:Isolate Solar Panel CB2.jpg | center]]

[[File:Solar Controller 10iPWM.jpg]]

'''Instruction Manual:''' [[Media:10i-ec Solar Controller Manual.pdf|Acrobat (PDF) (4.91MB)]]

There are three LEDs:

* Solar Panel LED:
** Green on: solar panel is charging the battery.
** Green blink: over voltage

*Battery LED:
** Green on: good battery level
** Green slowly flashing: battery fully charged
** Yellow on: battery level low
** Red on: load fault (not currently in use).

* Load LED: Not currently in use.

Specification:
* Equalisation voltage: 14.8V
* High voltage disconnect(HVD): 14.4V
* Float voltage: 13.6V
* Low voltage disconnect(LVD) 11.1V
* Low voltage reconnect(LVR): 12.6V
* Self-consumption: 6mA maximum
* Temperature compensation: -30mV/℃/12V
* Terminals: for wire sizes to 6mm2
* Temperature: -35℃ to +55℃

==Solar cells==

An additional solar cell was fitted to the roof in summer 2015

==Damage==

As may have been predicted heavy use of an already 'lifed out' caravan has started to cause the bodywork to come apart. Regular inspection and running repairs will be needed to keep ahead of this.

==Battery regime==

Having experienced less than expected service life from previous leisure batteries, it was decided in October 2015 to buy two leisure batteries and swap them over each month so that they could be alternately fully charged. It is believed that this will prolong the life of the batteries.

==New Caravan==
March(?) 2010: Chris Bessent arranged the purchase of a cheap caravan that can be turned into the new launch point caravan. Steve Barber and Alan Saunders and others have stripped the interior of all its furniture and fittings ready for the the re-fit.

== Update 09/01/11 ==

OK, so we didn't make the Oct 10 target. But there is progress, thanks to John Turk. Additional floor fitted, next step to attach wall to floor to strengthen whole thing, then move on to to interior furnishings.
SB 09/01/11

==Re-fit plan (Spring 2010)==
The aim is to get the caravan refitted during Summer 2010, ready for use in October 2010.
*Fit new floor to caravan: 3/4" plywood or OSB (Existing floor (chipboard?) is very spongy and won't last long)
*If necessary, cross-beams can be fitted below the floor. Either wooden or metal (welded to caravan's perimeter chassis)
*Corner legs to be checked and fixed / replaced if necessary.
*Check jockey wheel. Fix broken bracket.
(Done - rewelded by Peter Ellison in April. SB13/6)
*Reinforcing frame to be fitted around the doorway - wood or preferably steel. (people pull themselves up into the caravan by pulling heavily on the sides - leading to distrortion and cracks)
*Handles to be fitted to the outside for ease of moving the caravan. Strongly recommend fitting structural elements (preferably welded steel) to transfer forces to the chassis of the caravan, not just bolt them to the flimsy walls.
*Check: Is the caravan weather tight? If not, fix the leaking areas. (This caravan will probably be stored outside)
*: Need to replace window catch rubber toggles (flexi catches?) - available from caravan shops or Ebay.
*Fit lino / similarly hardwearing & waterproof covering to floor.
*DECISION: Which way round should the caravan be orientated in use? (Facing up the field / across the field?)
* Obtain and fit worktop, and legs. Include cut-out for the signal/timing box of electronics. Would be nice to have a removable perspex top - notices could be put underneath this.
I recommend flat-pack desk from Ikea or similar. Signal unit could be surface mounted. SB 13/6
*DECISION: Work out where the following items are to be located - bearing in mind ergonomics, and the centre of gravity of the finished/loaded caravan. Ideally the caravan will only have slight nose weight to allow for easy positioning.
*Obtain and build/install racking / shelving / cupboard for parachutes (probably best located over the axle for CofG reasons)
I recommend pine flat-pack self-assembly units obtainable from Ikea - easier than build from scratch SB 13/6
*Obtain and build/install shelving / cupboards for: forms, pens, paperwork, flight manuals, barograph, binoculars, cushions & packing, etc.
*Obtain or build a storage box for lead ballast weights. Again, probably best to be over the axle. Needs to be very strong and located above a main chassis rail.
*Obtain / build and fit seating.
*Fit notice boards to internal wall.
*Paint caravan exterior. Probably copy existing red and white check pattern for walls and matt black for the roof.
*: Black will produce a high heat gain but is possibly needed as a background to the signalling lamp. (AS 13/6)
*Choose position and copy existing mounting system to attach windsock and mast to the new caravan.
*DECIDE: What signal lights to use? How to mount them, considering: Ease of visibility for winch driver, ease of adjusting the positioning, etc. Make mounts and fit to the caravan.
*: Furneaux Riddall (Portsmouth) have an LED Work Light [http://www.furneauxriddall.com/shop/acatalog/LED_Work_Light.html#a7450 link] (ref:7450) £65 which may be good as a signalling light. At 15W it should be at least as bright as a 75W Halogen and at 1.29A voltage dop will not be a problem. Will also extend battery life. Beam angle may be too wide? (AS 13/6)
*Decide on position of blackboard on outside of caravan. (or upgrade to whiteboard?)
*Battery to be fitted to the existing battery box on the A-frame. Arrange battery clamp and new leads and THICK, good quality wiring.
*Choose best position for circuit breakers and battery condition gauge (use the items from the old caravan, just allow for their position, only move them when ready to use the new caravan)
*Install good wiring in the caravan for the signal lights, signal buzzer, signal box, etc.
*When the rest of the caravan is ready, transfer signal controller box, signal lights, battery gauge, circuit breaker, windsock mast, etc to the new caravan.
*Test that everything works as desired.
*Transfer all the paperwork, forms, manuals, etc into the new caravan.
*Use Caravan. (taking care not to destroy it...)

File:10i-ec Solar Controller Manual.pdf

2016-06-06T04:05:02Z

Alan Saunders:

File:Isolate Solar Panel CB2.jpg

2016-06-06T04:00:58Z

Alan Saunders:

File:Solar Controller 10iPWM.jpg

2016-06-06T03:46:51Z

Alan Saunders:

NEW LaunchPoint Caravan

2016-06-02T10:21:53Z

Alan Saunders: /* Solar Charge Controller */

==Solar Charge Controller==
The solar (Photo Voltaic - PV) panel, connected directly to the battery, was found to be charging at >16V! This is not good for the battery, lamp and control circuits. A Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) charge controller [http://www.bimblesolar.com/offgrid/chargers/10apwm Type 10I, 10A, 12/24V] from [http://www.bimblesolar.com Bimble Solar] is installed. The controller is powered by the battery and ''may'' be damaged if the panel is connected with no power from the battery.

<center>'''N.B. Disconnect the PV panel (2nd CB from left) before disconnecting the battery terminals!'''.</center>

[http://www.chinasolarregulator.com/user-manual/10i-ec.pdf 10i-ec Charge Controller User Manual]

There are three LEDs:

* Solar Panel LED:
** Green on: solar panel is charging the battery.
** Green blink: over voltage

*Battery LED:
** Green on: good battery level
** Green slowly flashing: battery fully charged
** Yellow on: battery level low
** Red on: load fault (not currently in use).

* Load LED: Not currently in use.

Specification:
* Equalisation voltage: 14.8V
* High voltage disconnect(HVD): 14.4V
* Float voltage: 13.6V
* Low voltage disconnect(LVD) 11.1V
* Low voltage reconnect(LVR): 12.6V
* Self-consumption: 6mA maximum
* Temperature compensation: -30mV/℃/12V
* Terminals: for wire sizes to 6mm2
* Temperature: -35℃ to +55℃

==Solar cells==

An additional solar cell was fitted to the roof in summer 2015

==Damage==

As may have been predicted heavy use of an already 'lifed out' caravan has started to cause the bodywork to come apart. Regular inspection and running repairs will be needed to keep ahead of this.

==Battery regime==

Having experienced less than expected service life from previous leisure batteries, it was decided in October 2015 to buy two leisure batteries and swap them over each month so that they could be alternately fully charged. It is believed that this will prolong the life of the batteries.

==New Caravan==
March(?) 2010: Chris Bessent arranged the purchase of a cheap caravan that can be turned into the new launch point caravan. Steve Barber and Alan Saunders and others have stripped the interior of all its furniture and fittings ready for the the re-fit.

== Update 09/01/11 ==

OK, so we didn't make the Oct 10 target. But there is progress, thanks to John Turk. Additional floor fitted, next step to attach wall to floor to strengthen whole thing, then move on to to interior furnishings.
SB 09/01/11

==Re-fit plan (Spring 2010)==
The aim is to get the caravan refitted during Summer 2010, ready for use in October 2010.
*Fit new floor to caravan: 3/4" plywood or OSB (Existing floor (chipboard?) is very spongy and won't last long)
*If necessary, cross-beams can be fitted below the floor. Either wooden or metal (welded to caravan's perimeter chassis)
*Corner legs to be checked and fixed / replaced if necessary.
*Check jockey wheel. Fix broken bracket.
(Done - rewelded by Peter Ellison in April. SB13/6)
*Reinforcing frame to be fitted around the doorway - wood or preferably steel. (people pull themselves up into the caravan by pulling heavily on the sides - leading to distrortion and cracks)
*Handles to be fitted to the outside for ease of moving the caravan. Strongly recommend fitting structural elements (preferably welded steel) to transfer forces to the chassis of the caravan, not just bolt them to the flimsy walls.
*Check: Is the caravan weather tight? If not, fix the leaking areas. (This caravan will probably be stored outside)
*: Need to replace window catch rubber toggles (flexi catches?) - available from caravan shops or Ebay.
*Fit lino / similarly hardwearing & waterproof covering to floor.
*DECISION: Which way round should the caravan be orientated in use? (Facing up the field / across the field?)
* Obtain and fit worktop, and legs. Include cut-out for the signal/timing box of electronics. Would be nice to have a removable perspex top - notices could be put underneath this.
I recommend flat-pack desk from Ikea or similar. Signal unit could be surface mounted. SB 13/6
*DECISION: Work out where the following items are to be located - bearing in mind ergonomics, and the centre of gravity of the finished/loaded caravan. Ideally the caravan will only have slight nose weight to allow for easy positioning.
*Obtain and build/install racking / shelving / cupboard for parachutes (probably best located over the axle for CofG reasons)
I recommend pine flat-pack self-assembly units obtainable from Ikea - easier than build from scratch SB 13/6
*Obtain and build/install shelving / cupboards for: forms, pens, paperwork, flight manuals, barograph, binoculars, cushions & packing, etc.
*Obtain or build a storage box for lead ballast weights. Again, probably best to be over the axle. Needs to be very strong and located above a main chassis rail.
*Obtain / build and fit seating.
*Fit notice boards to internal wall.
*Paint caravan exterior. Probably copy existing red and white check pattern for walls and matt black for the roof.
*: Black will produce a high heat gain but is possibly needed as a background to the signalling lamp. (AS 13/6)
*Choose position and copy existing mounting system to attach windsock and mast to the new caravan.
*DECIDE: What signal lights to use? How to mount them, considering: Ease of visibility for winch driver, ease of adjusting the positioning, etc. Make mounts and fit to the caravan.
*: Furneaux Riddall (Portsmouth) have an LED Work Light [http://www.furneauxriddall.com/shop/acatalog/LED_Work_Light.html#a7450 link] (ref:7450) £65 which may be good as a signalling light. At 15W it should be at least as bright as a 75W Halogen and at 1.29A voltage dop will not be a problem. Will also extend battery life. Beam angle may be too wide? (AS 13/6)
*Decide on position of blackboard on outside of caravan. (or upgrade to whiteboard?)
*Battery to be fitted to the existing battery box on the A-frame. Arrange battery clamp and new leads and THICK, good quality wiring.
*Choose best position for circuit breakers and battery condition gauge (use the items from the old caravan, just allow for their position, only move them when ready to use the new caravan)
*Install good wiring in the caravan for the signal lights, signal buzzer, signal box, etc.
*When the rest of the caravan is ready, transfer signal controller box, signal lights, battery gauge, circuit breaker, windsock mast, etc to the new caravan.
*Test that everything works as desired.
*Transfer all the paperwork, forms, manuals, etc into the new caravan.
*Use Caravan. (taking care not to destroy it...)

NEW LaunchPoint Caravan

2016-06-02T09:37:20Z

Alan Saunders: Solar Charge Controller installled 1/6/16

==Solar Charge Controller==
The solar (Photo Voltaic - PV) panel, connected directly to the battery, was found to be charging at >16V! This is not good for the battery, lamp and control circuits. A Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) charge controller [http://www.bimblesolar.com/offgrid/chargers/10apwm Type 10I, 10A, 12/24V] from [http://www.bimblesolar.com Bimble Solar] is installed. The controller is powered by the battery and ''may'' be damaged if the panel is connected with no power from the battery.

<center>'''N.B. Disconnect the PV panel (2nd CB from left) before disconnecting the battery terminals!'''.</center>

There are three LEDs:

* Solar Panel LED:
** Green on: solar panel is charging the battery.
** Green blink: over voltage

*Battery LED:
** Green on: good battery level
** Green slowly flashing: battery fully charged
** Yellow on: battery level low
** Red on: load fault (not currently in use).

* Load LED: Not currently in use.

Specification:
* Equalisation voltage: 14.8V
* High voltage disconnect(HVD): 14.4V
* Float voltage: 13.6V
* Low voltage disconnect(LVD) 11.1V
* Low voltage reconnect(LVR): 12.6V
* Self-consumption: 6mA maximum
* Temperature compensation: -30mV/℃/12V
* Terminals: for wire sizes to 6mm2
* Temperature: -35℃ to +55℃

==Solar cells==

An additional solar cell was fitted to the roof in summer 2015

==Damage==

As may have been predicted heavy use of an already 'lifed out' caravan has started to cause the bodywork to come apart. Regular inspection and running repairs will be needed to keep ahead of this.

==Battery regime==

Having experienced less than expected service life from previous leisure batteries, it was decided in October 2015 to buy two leisure batteries and swap them over each month so that they could be alternately fully charged. It is believed that this will prolong the life of the batteries.

==New Caravan==
March(?) 2010: Chris Bessent arranged the purchase of a cheap caravan that can be turned into the new launch point caravan. Steve Barber and Alan Saunders and others have stripped the interior of all its furniture and fittings ready for the the re-fit.

== Update 09/01/11 ==

OK, so we didn't make the Oct 10 target. But there is progress, thanks to John Turk. Additional floor fitted, next step to attach wall to floor to strengthen whole thing, then move on to to interior furnishings.
SB 09/01/11

==Re-fit plan (Spring 2010)==
The aim is to get the caravan refitted during Summer 2010, ready for use in October 2010.
*Fit new floor to caravan: 3/4" plywood or OSB (Existing floor (chipboard?) is very spongy and won't last long)
*If necessary, cross-beams can be fitted below the floor. Either wooden or metal (welded to caravan's perimeter chassis)
*Corner legs to be checked and fixed / replaced if necessary.
*Check jockey wheel. Fix broken bracket.
(Done - rewelded by Peter Ellison in April. SB13/6)
*Reinforcing frame to be fitted around the doorway - wood or preferably steel. (people pull themselves up into the caravan by pulling heavily on the sides - leading to distrortion and cracks)
*Handles to be fitted to the outside for ease of moving the caravan. Strongly recommend fitting structural elements (preferably welded steel) to transfer forces to the chassis of the caravan, not just bolt them to the flimsy walls.
*Check: Is the caravan weather tight? If not, fix the leaking areas. (This caravan will probably be stored outside)
*: Need to replace window catch rubber toggles (flexi catches?) - available from caravan shops or Ebay.
*Fit lino / similarly hardwearing & waterproof covering to floor.
*DECISION: Which way round should the caravan be orientated in use? (Facing up the field / across the field?)
* Obtain and fit worktop, and legs. Include cut-out for the signal/timing box of electronics. Would be nice to have a removable perspex top - notices could be put underneath this.
I recommend flat-pack desk from Ikea or similar. Signal unit could be surface mounted. SB 13/6
*DECISION: Work out where the following items are to be located - bearing in mind ergonomics, and the centre of gravity of the finished/loaded caravan. Ideally the caravan will only have slight nose weight to allow for easy positioning.
*Obtain and build/install racking / shelving / cupboard for parachutes (probably best located over the axle for CofG reasons)
I recommend pine flat-pack self-assembly units obtainable from Ikea - easier than build from scratch SB 13/6
*Obtain and build/install shelving / cupboards for: forms, pens, paperwork, flight manuals, barograph, binoculars, cushions & packing, etc.
*Obtain or build a storage box for lead ballast weights. Again, probably best to be over the axle. Needs to be very strong and located above a main chassis rail.
*Obtain / build and fit seating.
*Fit notice boards to internal wall.
*Paint caravan exterior. Probably copy existing red and white check pattern for walls and matt black for the roof.
*: Black will produce a high heat gain but is possibly needed as a background to the signalling lamp. (AS 13/6)
*Choose position and copy existing mounting system to attach windsock and mast to the new caravan.
*DECIDE: What signal lights to use? How to mount them, considering: Ease of visibility for winch driver, ease of adjusting the positioning, etc. Make mounts and fit to the caravan.
*: Furneaux Riddall (Portsmouth) have an LED Work Light [http://www.furneauxriddall.com/shop/acatalog/LED_Work_Light.html#a7450 link] (ref:7450) £65 which may be good as a signalling light. At 15W it should be at least as bright as a 75W Halogen and at 1.29A voltage dop will not be a problem. Will also extend battery life. Beam angle may be too wide? (AS 13/6)
*Decide on position of blackboard on outside of caravan. (or upgrade to whiteboard?)
*Battery to be fitted to the existing battery box on the A-frame. Arrange battery clamp and new leads and THICK, good quality wiring.
*Choose best position for circuit breakers and battery condition gauge (use the items from the old caravan, just allow for their position, only move them when ready to use the new caravan)
*Install good wiring in the caravan for the signal lights, signal buzzer, signal box, etc.
*When the rest of the caravan is ready, transfer signal controller box, signal lights, battery gauge, circuit breaker, windsock mast, etc to the new caravan.
*Test that everything works as desired.
*Transfer all the paperwork, forms, manuals, etc into the new caravan.
*Use Caravan. (taking care not to destroy it...)

SSS Wiki - User contributions [en]

Radio and Light Signalling

Radio and Light Signalling

Main Page

Skybrid

FLARM

Main Page

Skybrid

*NEW* LaunchPoint Caravan

*NEW* LaunchPoint Caravan

File:10i-ec Solar Controller Manual.pdf

File:Isolate Solar Panel CB2.jpg

File:Solar Controller 10iPWM.jpg

*NEW* LaunchPoint Caravan

*NEW* LaunchPoint Caravan

NEW LaunchPoint Caravan

NEW LaunchPoint Caravan

NEW LaunchPoint Caravan

NEW LaunchPoint Caravan