Difference between revisions of "*NEW* LaunchPoint Caravan"
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| + | ==Battery regime== | ||
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| + | Having experienced less than expected service life from previous leisure batteries, it was decided in October 2015 to buy two leisure batteries and swap them over each month so that they could be alternately fully charged. It is believed that this will prolong the life of the batteries. | ||
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==New Caravan== | ==New Caravan== | ||
March(?) 2010: Chris Bessent arranged the purchase of a cheap caravan that can be turned into the new launch point caravan. Steve Barber and Alan Saunders and others have stripped the interior of all its furniture and fittings ready for the the re-fit. | March(?) 2010: Chris Bessent arranged the purchase of a cheap caravan that can be turned into the new launch point caravan. Steve Barber and Alan Saunders and others have stripped the interior of all its furniture and fittings ready for the the re-fit. | ||
Revision as of 13:57, 4 March 2016
Battery regime
Having experienced less than expected service life from previous leisure batteries, it was decided in October 2015 to buy two leisure batteries and swap them over each month so that they could be alternately fully charged. It is believed that this will prolong the life of the batteries.
New Caravan
March(?) 2010: Chris Bessent arranged the purchase of a cheap caravan that can be turned into the new launch point caravan. Steve Barber and Alan Saunders and others have stripped the interior of all its furniture and fittings ready for the the re-fit.
Update 09/01/11
OK, so we didn't make the Oct 10 target. But there is progress, thanks to John Turk. Additional floor fitted, next step to attach wall to floor to strengthen whole thing, then move on to to interior furnishings. SB 09/01/11
Re-fit plan (Spring 2010)
The aim is to get the caravan refitted during Summer 2010, ready for use in October 2010.
- Fit new floor to caravan: 3/4" plywood or OSB (Existing floor (chipboard?) is very spongy and won't last long)
- If necessary, cross-beams can be fitted below the floor. Either wooden or metal (welded to caravan's perimeter chassis)
- Corner legs to be checked and fixed / replaced if necessary.
- Check jockey wheel. Fix broken bracket.
(Done - rewelded by Peter Ellison in April. SB13/6)
- Reinforcing frame to be fitted around the doorway - wood or preferably steel. (people pull themselves up into the caravan by pulling heavily on the sides - leading to distrortion and cracks)
- Handles to be fitted to the outside for ease of moving the caravan. Strongly recommend fitting structural elements (preferably welded steel) to transfer forces to the chassis of the caravan, not just bolt them to the flimsy walls.
- Check: Is the caravan weather tight? If not, fix the leaking areas. (This caravan will probably be stored outside)
- Need to replace window catch rubber toggles (flexi catches?) - available from caravan shops or Ebay.
- Fit lino / similarly hardwearing & waterproof covering to floor.
- DECISION: Which way round should the caravan be orientated in use? (Facing up the field / across the field?)
- Obtain and fit worktop, and legs. Include cut-out for the signal/timing box of electronics. Would be nice to have a removable perspex top - notices could be put underneath this.
I recommend flat-pack desk from Ikea or similar. Signal unit could be surface mounted. SB 13/6
- DECISION: Work out where the following items are to be located - bearing in mind ergonomics, and the centre of gravity of the finished/loaded caravan. Ideally the caravan will only have slight nose weight to allow for easy positioning.
- Obtain and build/install racking / shelving / cupboard for parachutes (probably best located over the axle for CofG reasons)
I recommend pine flat-pack self-assembly units obtainable from Ikea - easier than build from scratch SB 13/6
- Obtain and build/install shelving / cupboards for: forms, pens, paperwork, flight manuals, barograph, binoculars, cushions & packing, etc.
- Obtain or build a storage box for lead ballast weights. Again, probably best to be over the axle. Needs to be very strong and located above a main chassis rail.
- Obtain / build and fit seating.
- Fit notice boards to internal wall.
- Paint caravan exterior. Probably copy existing red and white check pattern for walls and matt black for the roof.
- Black will produce a high heat gain but is possibly needed as a background to the signalling lamp. (AS 13/6)
- Choose position and copy existing mounting system to attach windsock and mast to the new caravan.
- DECIDE: What signal lights to use? How to mount them, considering: Ease of visibility for winch driver, ease of adjusting the positioning, etc. Make mounts and fit to the caravan.
- Furneaux Riddall (Portsmouth) have an LED Work Light link (ref:7450) £65 which may be good as a signalling light. At 15W it should be at least as bright as a 75W Halogen and at 1.29A voltage dop will not be a problem. Will also extend battery life. Beam angle may be too wide? (AS 13/6)
- Decide on position of blackboard on outside of caravan. (or upgrade to whiteboard?)
- Battery to be fitted to the existing battery box on the A-frame. Arrange battery clamp and new leads and THICK, good quality wiring.
- Choose best position for circuit breakers and battery condition gauge (use the items from the old caravan, just allow for their position, only move them when ready to use the new caravan)
- Install good wiring in the caravan for the signal lights, signal buzzer, signal box, etc.
- When the rest of the caravan is ready, transfer signal controller box, signal lights, battery gauge, circuit breaker, windsock mast, etc to the new caravan.
- Test that everything works as desired.
- Transfer all the paperwork, forms, manuals, etc into the new caravan.
- Use Caravan. (taking care not to destroy it...)